It's the feel of sand between my toes.
The waiting.
The anticipation.
The tightness of the suit.
It's the bass line.
That fills my head.
My heart.
It's the water moving around my waist.
As I push further out.
It's the sound of the water slapping.
Lapping.
The side of the board.
The waiting.
The anticipation.
The sitting.
The build up.
Watching as waves roll up.
And facing away.
Paddle.
Push.
Pull.
Keep the pace.
Slow, yet fast.
Don't rush.
Big strokes.
And then you feel it.
As water rushes by your right hand side.
You left hand.
Depending on the break.
And the intake.
Of breath.
Stand.
Bend.
At the knees.
It's the feel of rushing air.
Wet hair.
And sometimes.
The fall.
The tumble.
And the rolling under the water.
Being pulled by the ankle.
Dragged.
And then calm.
Swimming up.
Catching your breath.
And starting again.
It's surfing.
It's what it is to me.
It's fun.
